| Anna in Haiti- Day 6
Ugggggg……….
Well, I got up this morning, feeling really great!! I ran to the market after breakfast to get my boys a treat, and was back before 8:30. I settled down to teaching Allande and started to feel….well….not so great. I didn’t eat breakfast, ( I can’t do food that early here) so it couldn’t have been the breakfast! After twenty minutes, I was in a cold sweat and knew that I was in trouble. I told the boys to keep working, and found one of my room-mates, asking her to tell Janet that I needed to lie down for a minute.
Janet Anthony is the woman in charge here and she is fabulous with a capitol F! She teaches cello at Appleton University and has been coming to Haiti for 17 years. She is also the woman that organized us all to come here. I don’t know if she means to be a surrogate mother to us all, but that is how we all see her, and even though I feel awful telling her that I can’t work at the moment, I am glad that she is there. She comes in to check on me and I tell her that I need to lie down for 15 minutes and that I refuse to be sick for any longer than that. She smiles, says no problem and goes to tell my boys that they are on their own for a while.
I spend the rest of the day waking from time to time as kind room mates give me medicine and our cook brings me lemonade. Sometime in the afternoon, I notice that another one of the beds in the room is occupied and I finally look up to see poor Bernard. He, too, is sick, sick. L Late in the afternoon, we move to the couches that are outside in hopes of catching some sort of breeze. Bernard has a fever, and we are both really miserable. He gives me something called Cipro, which I later find out is a massive antibiotic. It seems to get my stomach under control, but I am wiped. We sleep all day long ….so much for only needing 15 minutes! I wake at some point to find that two more folks are sick….something must be going around.
I feel terrible about missing an instruction day with my boys, but Robert takes them all into the workshop and keeps them going. It goes down as a lost day and it turns out that Bernard and I were the first two in a long line of folks coming down with the crud throughout the next few days. Oh well, hopefully tomorrow will be a better day.
Anna
We’re Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! |
Time
Red Goop, Anyone? Haiti Day 5
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Anna in Haiti- Day 5
Red Goop, Anyone?
Today I woke up and I feel a thousand percent better. In fact, I feel like my old self…full of hope and light. I am really glad to be here and glad that my funk-age has passed!! J J I spent the day teaching and once again, the men were really receptive. Everyone here is on ‘Haitian time’- except for my guys. In Haiti, time is kind a concept rather than an absolute. If something is supposed to start at 10,
Well, bow class is supposed to go vaguely from 9-12 and 2-5ish. I assume that, since we are in Haiti, I can actually start working at 8 and get a bunch of work done before my guys drift in later in the morning. However, it seems that our lutherie students are seriously motivated and most of them show up early every day and refuse to take a lunch break! Oh well, who am I to complain!! J J We spent the day putting hair in the giant pile of sticks that seems to grow each day and I am so happy to see them getting better and better.
After class, I climb up on the roof where I am joined by Robert Cain, the luthier from England. Robert is really delightful and each day I like him more and more. He is quiet and thoughtful, but when you listen closely, the funniest, most witty things come out of him!! We have started a sort of habit of watching the sunset off of the roof as we wait for the others to return from camp, and it has become my favorite part of the day. Every now and then, locals walking or driving by will glance up and see us up there. We wave and smile and are met by the most genuine grins. It is pretty great.
As the sun sets, Bernard returned and clambered up with a gift he had purchased. An unfamiliar red liquor with a label that said that it was guaranteed to induce carnal love-making in you if you were 80 years old. I swear I am not making this up!!! We laughed and sat together, passing the bottle back and forth. I couldn’t tell you the name of the stuff, just that we called it the “Red Goop”. We were slowly joined by Janet Anthony, Tom, Scott and a few others. Lined up on the roof, taking sips of Red Goop, I was hit by how lucky I am to be a part of this group. The people here are really extraordinary. They have been coming here for years, and they keep returning for one reason, and one reason only. The students. They are an amazingly dedicated group and listening to them makes me want to be better at my job as well. I am going to do everything I can to earn my place among them.
After most of the Red Goop was gone, and darkness had descended, we all went inside for dinner. Someone suggested going to Café des Arts, a bar about six blocks away, to hear live music and I jumped at the chance to go. Shortly thereafter, I am heading through the Haitian night with Tom, Bob and Bernard. I feel about as well protected as a girl can be. J When we finally enter Café des Arts, I feel completely transported! This place looks like a cross between a theme restaurant and the set of a spy movie! It is completely open in the middle and there are all these trees and palms growing up everywhere. There are couches scattered around and a stage in the middle of it all. The bar is owned by two women from Eastern Europe and the one that we met looked like something out of an art film!! She was very tall and quite intimidating, wearing big spike heels and looking very much like someone I would not want to mess with!
As the crowd trickled in, it became curious-er and curious-er. There are lots of NGO people here…..mostly Europeans and Americans, all looking like something out of a J. Peterman catalog. You know the type, scuffed leather bags, artfully rumpled clothing, waaaay to cool…….. It was the neatest crowd I have ever seen and I enjoyed myself immensely as we sat on a couch sipping rum punch and listening to the music. The band played Roots music and was made up of 4 Haitian drums and one singer. Shortly after they started, they were joined by local dancers and the evening was full of these pulsing, tribal rhythms and stomping, gyrating men and women. It was flat out, the coolest thing I have seen so far. J
Midnight came and went and we finally decided that for safety sake, we should head back. We left the Café and was immediately approached by a young boy offering to be our ‘guide’ back to the church. This is quite normal….he just wanted a tip. But Bernard put his arm around me and said, “Do not talk to him!”, and then escorted me all the way up the hill to our church. See!! I told you I was well protected! J
I let myself in our room as quietly as possible, trying not to wake the others and settled down on my sleeping pad. Somehow, the noise, heat and smells seem less tonight and I think that I might just be getting used to Haiti. I sure am starting to love it……
Bonswa…..
Anna
We’re Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! |
We Really are the World- Haiti Day 8, part 1
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Anna in Haiti-Day 8
We Really Are The World….
Today is the day that I have been waiting for. Today is the big concert, and I am so excited! It is my only chance to meet most of the students and to see my colleagues at work. The Saint Trinite Music School was part of a compound in Port Au Prince that included the school of music, a trade school, and a giant, beautiful Cathedral. The earthquake devastated almost all of it.
The trade school was completely destroyed and there are still over 200 people interred in the rubble.
The Cathedral was completely destroyed, leaving only parts of the exterior walls, showing splashes of the murals that it was famous for.
Only the school was left partially standing. But camp has been taking place on the grounds all week long, among the rubble. This is where my friends have been coming everyday to teach and conduct the students. The day before I arrived, all of the volunteers and staff spent hours moving stones, bricks and debris from the floor of the Cathedral in plans for the concert to actually take place on the ruins, themselves.
Can you imagine how incredible and how important this concert is to everyone?
As we drove to the site, the surrounding areas showed more and more devastation. Bernard asks the driver to show me the Presidential Palace and by the time we arrive, I am close to falling apart. Seeing all of this on the news and seeing it in person are two completely different things for me. When we arrive at the Cathedral, the first thing I see are the giant bells that were originally in the tower. They are lying in a heap. And then Bernard shows me a room with a giant pile of crumpled metal and wood. It is unrecognizable and I have to ask what it was. The giant, beautiful pipe organ.
Everyone else here has been here all week, but for Robert and I, it is our first time and I am having a hard time keeping it together. Janet approaches me and asks how I am holding up. I am all choked up, but I tell her that all is ok. Today is a day for celebration, not despair. As we all take our seats, the concert begins with a reading of the names of the people that died in the Quake. There is such sadness on every face. Added to that, today’s concert is dedicated to a young deaf man that had worked for the School of Music. He was killed in a boating accident the day before I arrived.
However, as the Petite Chanteurs, (the children’s choir) start to chant and process in, the mood lifts perceptively. During the third song, a woman in her 80’s in front of us succumbs to the heat. But when they lay here down on the ground and start pouring water on her, she admonishes them to leave her alone…she just wants to lie there and listen to the music. J
I alternate between pride, sorrow, wonder and joy as the choir is followed by the young orchestra, the band and then the older full orchestra, the OPST. These students have worked so hard for this. They are playing on terrible instruments, many damaged by the earthquake, and some are living in tent cities. But they are here making music on this day. The conductors, all of my volunteer friends, have worked so hard for this. They have taught in substandard circumstances, using cobbled together equipment after spending their nights sleeping on the floor.
Do you remember me telling you that these are extraordinary people? They, too, are here making music on this day.
All of those clichés we hear about music making everything better and bringing people together and giving them hope……. Those have never been more profoundly true for me than they are today.
The concert ends with a big finale, “We are the World“. I finally let the tears fall as the words hit me over and over, “ We are saving our own lives…together we will make a better day, just you and me”. Half way through, the audience jumped to their feet and joined in singing, waving their arms in the air. It was so joyous that I could barely breathe. When it finally ended to tumultuous cheers and applause, I felt completely drained. And completely blessed. I cannot believe that I was lucky enough to be here and see this. How could anyone not believe wholeheartedly in the power of music and the human spirit? And the resilience of these amazing Haitians.
Extraordinary………….
(to be continued)
We’re Gonna Dance Upon This Earth! |