Cookies and Pachabels Canon- Haiti Day 4

 

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 Anna in Haiti-Day 4
Cookies, and Pachabel’s Canon
  Today I woke up really early, considering that a bunch of us were out late last night. 🙂 Even on 6 hours of sleep, I felt awake and really wanted to get some work done quietly before my students get here.  I went in to take a shower, which here, consists of a trickle of cold water in a dank and mildewed shower stall.  It is fairly disgusting compared to American standards, but here I am just totally grateful for it!  Running water is a luxury and I have no complaints. 🙂 The only bad thing is that you get out of the shower, get dressed and immediately start sweating profusely.  Luckily, though….everyone has the same problem and none of us smell all that great. 🙂  Somehow, not worrying about things like personal hygiene just seem to make us see the real person inside anyway….just like backpacking.
       After breakfast, I sat and worked with my headphones, listening to Jimmy Buffett as I cut bow plugs.  Of course, my students show up early and away we go.  They are all in great moods today and we all feel like old friends.  They tease me as I drop a bow, saying ”      “, which means ‘Careful’.  I have been saying it to them for two days and they are happy to have the opportunity to say it back.  🙂  We all laugh and work hard and their work has come along fantastically!!
   I slip away twice to teach a couple of bass lessons and enjoy the challenge of teaching through the language barrier.  It is so much easier to do this with music than with re-hairing!!  The atmosphere is insane…..we are literally ten feet away from giant trucks barreling up a mountain road and the constant cacophany of car horns and yelling make it almost impossible to hear each other.  However, there is no other way so they keep playing and I keep teaching.  🙂
      As the afternoon wore on, I broke out cookies that I had brought for the men and smiles abounded.  Then all of the sudden one of them jumped up, grabbed a beat up old cello and started to play.  Within five minutes we all had instruments and had a wonderful jam session!  We played jazz, Amazing Grace and something Disney that I didn’t recognize.  I started to cry as we settled into  Pachabels Canon.  It was one of those, “Oh my god….how did I get here?” moments.  The unhappiness of the last few days is completely gone and I, once again, and totally filled with gratitude. I just want to say ‘thank you, thank you, thank you……………”
Bon swa,
Anna

We’re Gonna Dance Upon This Earth!
www.traildames.com

Homesickness, Michael Jackson and Sunsets- Haiti Day 3

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Haiti- Day 3

“Homesickness, Michael Jackson and Sunsets”
  So, today was a day of great ups and downs….the first part, down’s. I spent the morning feeling so sad and down, and my great concern was, should I even mention it here? I mean, really, no one wants to hear anyone go on and on about feeling down…especially when they are off traveling the world. Really, who would feel sorry for a person like that? In any case, I knew I had to take a proactive step towards getting myself out of my funk-age. ( I swear, it is a word….look it up! ) So I text-ed a couple of friends and called my mom. I knew that would do the trick. And sure enough, after a rough afternoon of trying to corral grown men into my way of bow repair, things started looking up. 🙂
First of all, I remembered something….every time I take a 3-4 week trip, I always get really homesick and sad about the middle of week two. Well, I figured that since I came home for 22 hours between Ecuador and Haiti, I was immune to that. Guess the joke was on me…. 🙂 Once I realized that, I felt a bit better. And then lots of little tiny things happened to make me smile. Several people said nice things to me or to each other and it just helped lift my spirits.
After lunch, all of the other staff leave to go to another location for afternoon camp, leaving Robert and I with the lutherie students. The best thing that happened this afternoon is that I had a breakthrough with my guys!! I am now teaching 4 Haitian men, between the ages of 17 and 30, with four more to join me later in the week. There is very little English and while a couple of them have been polite, a couple more are serving me up platters of attitude. The director finally stepped in and spoke to them. I think they just want this to be easier than it is! I tell them that I understand that completely, but I don’t think I am getting my point across.
Then…..in the middle of the afternoon, I ask Roosevelt if he watches American movies or listens to American music. His face lit up and he started talking about Action Adventures and Jackie Chan. When we got around to music, he mentioned Michael Jackson and I started singing “Thriller”. Now I am a hero! 🙂 Oh, and I broke out the candy that I had brought from America. An hour later, we are all working around this little tiny desk, with piles of tools in front of us, humming “Billy Jean”. I think we are going to be just fine from here on out. 🙂 🙂 🙂
After all of the students left, Robert Cain, the other luthier here, and I climbed up on the roof and watched the sun set while we waiting for everyone else to come home. The noise and smog seem a little less from thirty feet up, and the setting sun blurs the rough edges. As we watch people congregating in front of their tents, Rob and I talk quietly about LSF and the Haiti programs. I am glad that I get a chance to thank him sincerely for putting so much work into it. I think LSF is amazing and I am so honored to be a part of it. When darkness finally falls, we make our way off of the roof and head in to wait for the others to return. This has turned out to be a great day……
Bonswa,
Anna

We’re Gonna Dance Upon This Earth!
www.traildames.com

We Really are the World- Haiti Day 8, part 1

Anna in Haiti-Day 8
We Really Are The World….
  Today is the day that I have been waiting for. Today is the big concert, and I am so excited! It is my only chance to meet most of the students and to see my colleagues at work. The Saint Trinite Music School was part of a compound in Port Au Prince that included the school of music, a trade school, and a giant, beautiful Cathedral. The earthquake devastated almost all of it.P8010128
The trade school was completely destroyed and there are still over 200 people interred in the rubble.
   The Cathedral was completely destroyed, leaving only parts of the exterior walls, showing splashes of the murals that it was famous for.
   Only the school was left partially standing. But camp has been taking place on the grounds all week long, among the rubble. This is where my friends have been coming everyday to teach and conduct the students. The day before I arrived, all of the volunteers and staff spent hours moving stones, bricks and debris from the floor of the Cathedral in plans for the concert to actually take place on the ruins, themselves.
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Can you imagine how incredible and how important this concert is to everyone?
  As we drove to the site, the surrounding areas showed more and more devastation. Bernard asks the driver to show me the Presidential Palace and by the time we arrive, I am close to falling apart. Seeing all of this on the news and seeing it in person are two completely different things for me. When we arrive at the Cathedral, the first thing I see are the giant bells that were originally in the tower. They are lying in a heap. And then Bernard shows me a room with a giant pile of crumpled metal and wood. It is unrecognizable and I have to ask what it was. The giant, beautiful pipe organ.
   Everyone else here has been here all week, but for Robert and I, it is our first time and I am having a hard time keeping it together. Janet approaches me and asks how I am holding up. I am all choked up, but I tell her that all is ok. Today is a day for celebration, not despair. As we all take our seats, the concert begins with a reading of the names of the people that died in the Quake. There is such sadness on every face. Added to that, today’s concert is dedicated to a young deaf man that had worked for the School of Music. He was killed in a boating accident the day before I arrived.
   However, as the Petite Chanteurs, (the children’s choir) start to chant and process in, the mood lifts perceptively. During the third song, a woman in her 80’s in front of us succumbs to the heat. But when they lay here down on the ground and start pouring water on her, she admonishes them to leave her alone…she just wants to lie there and listen to the music. J
   I alternate between pride, sorrow, wonder and joy as the choir is followed by the young orchestra, the band and then the older full orchestra, the OPST. These students have worked so hard for this. They are playing on terrible instruments, many damaged by the earthquake, and some are living in tent cities. But they are here making music on this day. The conductors, all of my volunteer friends, have worked so hard for this. They have taught in substandard circumstances, using cobbled together equipment after spending their nights sleeping on the floor.
Do you remember me telling you that these are extraordinary people? They, too, are here making music on this day.
  All of those clichés we hear about music making everything better and bringing people together and giving them hope……. Those have never been more profoundly true for me than they are today.
  The concert ends with a big finale, “We are the World“. I finally let the tears fall as the words hit me over and over, “ We are saving our own lives…together we will make a better day, just you and me”. Half way through, the audience jumped to their feet and joined in singing, waving their arms in the air. It was so joyous that I could barely breathe. When it finally ended to tumultuous cheers and applause, I felt completely drained. And completely blessed. I cannot believe that I was lucky enough to be here and see this. How could anyone not believe wholeheartedly in the power of music and the human spirit? And the resilience of these amazing Haitians.
Extraordinary………….
(to be continued)

We’re Gonna Dance Upon This Earth!
www.traildames.com

Extreme Luthierism- Haiti Day 2

Haiti- Day 2
“Language Barrier? What language barrier!?”
I wake up early this morning feeling pretty bad. I am not sick or anything, I am just feeling so out of place. Two big trips, back to back, I think, was a mistake. Ecuador took so much out of me…..all in a wonderful, great way, but it left me feeling emotionally and physically depleted. Of course, I blame Njål and all my new Tango friends for the physical part!! 🙂 Anyway, I should know better than to come to a place like this so drained. When I woke up this morning, I just lay on that hard floor, with unbelievably loud noise coming in the open windows and thought, “Seriously, Anna….what the hell have you done”. I just feel so low.
  BUT……I am not so down that I have forgotten two things…..one, this is a life-time opportunity.
And two, I can be of real service here.
Oh, and a third thing….I asked for this.
  So…..I will work on my attitude and I will come around. I suspect by early afternoon, I will be my old cheery self again. 🙂
  For now, we are walking to the market down the street to change our US dollars into Gourds. We leave our house and immediately walk by a tent city. It is a bit overwhelming. There are people selling all kinds of things on the streets, and the atmosphere is somewhat chaotic! Traffic consists of tap-taps, cars, motorcycles and the occasional UN truck with machine guns on the back, all vying for the 2 free feet of space on the road. Steve, one of the violin teachers here is wonderful….he gently pulls me back each time I step out into the road. It will be a miracle if I don’t get run over!!
    The market was small, but interesting and had just about anything you could want…from rum to frozen Friday’s Potato Skins. My favorite part, however, was standing in front of the cleaning products with Rob and the others, studying the Ajax, furniture polish and muriatic acid. We are trying to figure out what we can use to clean instruments and bows, and I have to laugh when Robert turns to me and says, ‘This really is extreme luthier-ism!”
   I, for one, can see why this wouldn’t be for some luthiers!! But for me, this is great! I do love the whole, ‘fly by the seat of your pants’ thing.

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However, I do suspect that by the end of the week, I will be putting face plates on bows, using plastic milk cartons. My bow teachers may just die….. 🙂 🙂
  Oh well, off to fix some bows!!
  So, it turns out that I was right……..It is now almost six and I feel somewhat better. I spent the day teaching two men, Tchoupy and Reginald, how to rehair bows. Without any interpreter after lunch, it got really difficult!! When I originally sent off the email to volunteer for this, I said that I do not speak the language, but that that wouldn’t be a problem. My dad said to me, “don’t you mean that you HOPE that won’t be a problem?“. To which I replied confidently, “No, that will not be a problem”. Well, he might have had a point!! You try explaining the angles of a bow tip mortise using nothing but sign language and my questionable drawing skills!!
    And to top it all off, every time I try to say ‘Oui’ I say ‘Si’. I have a lot of gifts and talents, but languages is not one of them. And actually, a lot of people here don’t really understand my French so well. Could be because I haven’t spoken it in 20 years! But they all speak Kreyol which is now officially the hardest language I have ever attempted. It sounds like a cross between French and Swahili, which should make it fairly do-able for me, but the accent is really giving me a hard time. I will keep working on it!!
After dinner…..which for the record, they set out at 3:30, even though we do not eat til 7:30……..in 98 degree heat……. Needless to say, I am not touching the meat here!! 🙂
  Anyway…after dinner, almost the whole group went for a drink several blocks away at a kind of upscale place. It is strange, you walk by tent cities and it appears that there is abject poverty everywhere. Then, out of no where, there will be a really nice place. Everyone tells me that Petionville, which is where we are working, was the nicest suburb in Port au Prince. As a result, there are these anomalies tucked away….a wonderful hotel with a swimming pool, a beautiful restaurant, a little market. All I know is that if my mother and father could see me walking through the dark streets of Haiti at 9:00 at night, dodging motorbikes and rubble, they would NOT be happy. But I am one of 14 people so I feel pretty ok about it. 🙂
    Once again, for the umpteenth time in the last few weeks, I find myself sitting at a table with a big group of people laughing and talking over each other in different languages. I am sitting next to Bernard, a violinist my age from Paris and we are exchanging stories about traveling. He is wonderful, wonderful and offers to go with me to the market to buy some souvenirs. Between him and Steve, my traffic guardian, I feel like I am starting to have some friends here.
   My first full day in Haiti is finished and I am interested to see what the rest of it holds. For now, as I brush the millionth mosquito away, I just really hope I get home without malaria!! 🙂 🙂
Bonswa,
Anna

Karen’s Waterfall Adventures-Part 3

Excerpt by Karen T.

Denton Branch Falls small
Kilby Mill Falls – this was another one that took me three tries to find,
that turned out to be easy after all. This is actually a 2 stage falls, and
the trail to the lower stage is easy, the short trail to the upper falls is
not so easy – but it’s not bad.

Lake Trahlyta Falls – these falls are below the lake at Vogel State Park.
The trail starts down from the dam and is a bit steep, and near the viewing
platform not in the best shape, but not too bad.Dames

Tiger Creek Falls – these are 2 falls on the grounds of the Tiger Creek Inn.
Talk to the proprietor and let her know you’d like to see the falls. The
upper falls are small, but pretty and are behind the lower rooms of the Inn.
The lower falls are higher, and down a long, long set of steep board steps
to a small viewing platform. They day I did them it had been raining and the
boards were wet, so I went down VERY carefully in case they were slippery –
there are handrails on both sides.

Unnamed falls Davis Creek-above Dukes Creek Falls – 2 falls – the first of
these falls is LITERALLY above Dukes Creek Falls. The short (maybe 200
yards) downhill trail comes out right on the top of the tallest falls the
feeds into Dukes Creek. There’s a nice flat area to “land” on, so it’s not
dangerous – but you do want to say out of the creek. About 30 feet or so
upstream is a smaller pretty falls. The other falls is further up the same
forest service road. You cross the creek, park immediately and walk through
the well-used camping area and the falls are just around a small curve in
the creek.

Falls on Barnes Creek – these falls are a long, steep drive up a forest
service road in the Cohutta Wilderness, but the falls themselves are in a
small picnic area and are easy to get to. There’s a side trail that goes up
a bit steeply to a viewing platform at the top of the falls.

Warwoman Dell Falls – this is a small, pretty falls at the far end of the
nature trail in Warwoman Dell, outside Clayton. The hike is easy, maybe a
little over 1/4 mile total.

Falls on Wildcat Creek – these 2 falls are right beside the forest service
road and are quite near the road that goes back to the trailhead for Hemlock
Falls. There is also a rock waterslide on the same creek that is very
popular with children.

Minnehaha Falls – this falls is a short hike from the gravel road and had
been a playground for children for generations. They are near Angel Falls &
Panther Falls.

Falls on Crow Creek Road – these are 2 falls, one easily visible from the GA
Power gravel road. The other is a short hike beside the creek and is a nice
area for a picnic. There is a rather elaborate rock built grill here that is
about 5 feet tall – so this is evidently a popular picnic area!

Bad Branch Falls – this tall waterfall is a bit difficult to find. Follow
the directions on Mr Anthony’s site and pay particular attention to the
distances he gives. Once you find it, it’s a short hike up a badly eroded
old road – but worth the effort!
(Panther Falls, Angel Falls, Minnehaha Falls, Bad Branch Falls, Crow Creek
Falls, and Hemlock falls can all be done in one long day of driving/hiking)

Toccoa Falls – this sheer drop falls of 186 feet is on the grounds of Toccoa
Falls College. The trail in is easy. There is a fee to pay to the college.
There is a very sad history to this falls, which I won’t detail here…but
you can look it up.

Falls on Davis Creek (Gilmer County) – this is a different Davis Creek from
the one that forms Dukes Creek. This one is in Gilmer County. The falls are
on private property, but you can get a pretty good – though distant – view
from the road.

Shoals on Soque River – this is not, strictly speaking, a waterfall, but is
a nice cascading shoals right behind “The Mark of the Potter” on Hwy 197
about 10 miles north of Clarkesville. There a nice parking area and a good
view of the shoals from the road.

Tallulah Gorge – there are several falls in this spectacular gorge below the
town of Tallulah Falls. The best way to view them is to take the steps into
and out of the gorge, but be prepared…there are over 1000 steps! There is
a fee into the park.

Becky Branch Falls – these falls are a little over 1/4 mile uphill hike from
Warwoman Dell. Park in the first parking area in the Dell and hike a short
way down the road to the trailhead. The switchbacks out of the Dell are
steep, but not too bad. Cross the road and hike the short, fairly steep
trail to the falls. The trail crosses on a wooden bridge right at the base
of the falls.

Martins Creek Falls – these falls can be reached by hiking past Becky Branch
Falls and then a further 2 miles to the viewing platform at the falls. Or
you can shorten that to 1/2 mile hike by following the directions on Mr
Anthony’s site. Your feet WILL get wet crossing Martins Creek following his
directions.

Keown Falls – the shortest way to these falls is follow Mr Anthony’s
directions. This is a nearly 2 mile hike, and the last part just before the
viewing platform is a little tricky as it is narrow rock steps around a
large outcrop. You can also get to these falls by driving up to the top of
John’s Mountain and hiking down from there…which is a bit longer, but to
me a lot nicer. The falls are a sheer drop and there is actually a hiking
trail that goes under the falls. The falls is very dependent on rainfall and
in dry times there might not be any water flowing over.

Raven Cliff Falls – this is a 2 1/2 mile hike in, all uphill but not too
strenuous. You practically have to be on top of the falls at the top of the
trail to see them as they are in a very narrow slot in the rock. there are
several other unnamed falls along this trail.

Falls near Unicoi Gap – these falls are on the same forest service road that
goes down to Horse Trough Falls and are right along the road, not too far
from Hwy 75. There’s no parking, you just have to find the closest wide spot
and pull over as far as you safely can.

Bean Creek Falls – this small falls is not too far from Unicoi State park,
but is hard to see when the trees are in full leaf. It’s easier to find in
the fall and winter, when it is easily visible from the road. The directions
on Mr Anthony’s site are accurate, except they say the falls are on the
right side of the road…they are not, going up the road the way he
describes, they are on the left side.

Sylvan Mill Falls – this small, pretty falls is on private property but is
easily seen from the road. The road is narrow and there is no parking. Just
park as far to the side as you can and try not to block any traffic that
comes by.

Nancytown Falls – these falls are not on Mr Anthony’s website. They are a
short way down a side trail off the Sourwood Trail in the Lake Russell
Recreation Area near Mount Airy. The easiest way to get to them is to park
in the hikers parking area, hike up the paved road past the group camping
area and where the Sourwood Trail goes to the left, turn right and cross the
creek on the bridge. Hike straight up this road (ignore the road that comes
in from the left) until you cross another creek. There is a pretty little
waterfall here, on the right. Just across the creek the trail goes upstream
to the left. Follow this trail maybe a little under a mile and you will see
a sign to the falls where the main trail turns left to go uphill. This is a
nice trail, but I don’t advise hiking it in warm weather. As much day hiking
as I do, this is the only trail I ever came home from with ticks. There are
several deer grazing areas and when the grass is tall – one year it was over
my head – you WILL get ticks. I only hike this one in the fall and winter,
and early spring before it gets too warm.

Karen T.
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