Backpacking with the Maryland Dames!!

Oct 2010 MD Trail Dames Backpacking Trip 012
Five of us went and we left my home at 7 am. Many thanks to my son Adam for riding along so that he could drive the van back home. We were at the trail head by 8 am and on the trail at 8:10 am. The day was windy and cool but once we got moving we all warmed up. The wind in the trees made them seem to be speaking to us as we passed – the creaking, groaning, sighing sounds that trees make when brushing against one another made the forest come quite alive around us. The trail was carpeted in multi-colored leaves. We hiked along chatting, laughing, and feeling wonderful. At one point the wind drove a cloud up over the mountain and into the woods around us, surrounding us in a faint swirling mist. We were hiking on the last 3.5 miles of the 13 mile long “roller coaster” on that northbound stretch of the AT, a long stretch of constant ups and downs – more ups than downs – so it took us about 2 1/2 hours to make our first goal – the gorgeous vista from Raven Rocks. We took that chance to drop our packs, have some snacks, and take lots of photos. We were feeling great! A gentleman came up the trail behind us with just a fanny pack. He was on his way to the Blackburn Trail Center (7 miles from Snickers Gap). We chatted and he went on his way.

I really wanted to make the David Lesser shelter by 4 pm so that there would be ample time to set up camp, change clothes, get water, cook dinner and relax before going to sleep. We were making excellent time. We hiked at our own paces, so more often than not the two Sues and Mylynh were several minutes ahead while Audrey and I brought up the rear. We’d all catch up now and then for lunch and rest breaks. At Blackburn Trail Center Sue V. went down the side trail to see the center while the rest of us waiting on the trail and rested. We all moved out when we were ready to go and we all were at the shelter by 4 pm – the two Sues arriving ahead of us. What a fabulous feeling to know you’re done for the day! We had done 10.5 miles in about 8 hours. Some of the ups were pretty steep, there were rocks, rocks, and more rocks often making it hard to distinguish the trail bed from the woods.

We were the first ones into the shelter (a hiker was tented below in the campground) and made the decision to just spend the night in it rather than in our tents. Two middle-aged men came in a short while after us. By the time the sun had set there were 14 hikers stopped for the night. We laid out our places on the upper platform, changed clothes, grabbed our water filters and fetch bags and headed down the steep 1/4 mile trail to the spring. Ugh! So far away! It wasn’t the trip down so much – – it was hauling all of that extra water back up! Once we were back we set about cooking our dinners, chatting about the day, and watching the other hikers arrive. The two men who had come in after us decided to sleep in the shelter as well, on the deck just below the platform. They cooked their dinners at the picnic table near the shelter and started up a nice fire. We all went to sit by the fire as the sun went down. Very peaceful. By 7:30 pm I’d had enough, having been up since 4 am and being somewhat beaten down by the “ups” of the day, so I went off to bed. I never heard the others come in to sleep but I gather everyone was in bed by 9:30 pm. Fortunately, I had brought my ear plugs along……one of the men had laid out his mat and bag on the deck right up against the sleeping platform. His head was about two feet from mine….and he snored..and snored…and snored!! I could dampen it well enough with the plugs, but the others weren’t so lucky and had to listen to that horrid noise all night! He truly had no idea how close he came to being whapped upside the head with a hiking boot! It was the general consensus that he surely must have been aware that he snored like that (he said he was married, so his wife must have told him!) and therefore should have been considerate enough to set up a tent in the campground area! We were clearly there first and had our mats and bags laid out long before he did.

Everyone was up by sunup and fixing breakfast at the picnic table. We were somewhat sore and stiff but nothing terrible, and we were packed up and back on the trail by 8:20 am, with 10 miles to go to Harpers Ferry. Sunday’s miles would be easier in terms of the ups and downs as it was mostly flat and down but the trail bed was far rockier than the stretch we’d already covered. I’d done this stretch before and lost my big toenails because of the beating my feet took on the rocks. It wasn’t any different this time.

We were at Keys Gap before 10 am – a good place to drop the packs and sit at the picnic table there for a rest. Just 3/10s of a mile down the road west of there is a mini-mart, so Sue and I walked down for a snack and a cold soda. When we got back to the others a small car had pulled into the parking area and a man got out wearing a fanny packed that I recognized. It was the guy from the vista point that we’d met the day before! He came over to chat a moment. He was going to hike from Keys Gap to Blackburn Trail Center and back to finish up the last bit of trail that he needed to complete everything from Georgia to Pennsylvania. We wished him well and off he went, and so did we. From there to the border of Harpers Ferry National Park the rocks once again beat me up both physically and mentally. I find that I can’t relax for a second because every step has to be thought out in advance – step here, step there, go around that rock, step on top of that one, etc. Soon I was left in the dust by the others but that was okay. I could feel my toes getting chewed up in my boots and the bottoms of my feet getting bruised. I caught up with everyone now and then for a rest break. By noon or a little after, we were at the sign pointing the way down down down to the Hwy 340 Bridge and the end of the hike! We made our way down, some of us with legs of jello and sore joints, slowly. It’s a very steep down, and long, switch back trail and in some places it quite narrowly hugs one side of the mountain, with a long drop down on the other side, with rocks for stairs now and then. Once on the bridge, we marched along happy and proud. There was a long line of slow traffic going the other way and the looks on the faces of some of the people as they watched 5 women stride along with loaded packs……priceless! We decided to end it at the parking lot at the end of the bridge, and Sue V’s husband was kind enough to come pick us up. We had made it across the bridge and to the lot by 1:20 pm.

I admit to being quite sore and stiff but I was also very happy. It’s a grand feeling of accomplishment. I hope that everyone else felt the same way. I am quite eager to do it again! Well, not that section again! I’ve done it twice now – that’s enough. Today, Wednesday, I am completely recovered physically (though my big toe nails have darkened so I’ll have to wait and see how that goes), unpacked, and everything is put away until the next adventure!

Linda

Beautiful Maryland Hike

MD Dames
Hike Report from the Maryland Dames

What a great hike we had yesterday!  Many thanks to Sue Guynn of the Frederick News Post for coming along to interview the Dames and take photos and video.

We met in the Harpers Ferry Visitors Center parking lot and took the shuttle bus down into town. We were early to be almost the only people on the bus…the one other person was a lone male, or as one Dame put it “a thistle in a bed of roses.”  Winking smile  It was chilly to start off, only in the upper 30’s, but brilliantly clear out.  We made our way to the trail head (a trek that probably adds another full mile to the hike, round trip), and took our group photos. I took a moment to dedicate the hike to a dear friend, Lola Williamson, who died suddenly this past week. She was always a great encouragement to me in every thing I did and will be sorely missed on this earth. Broken heart

This trail is the road bed that Union troops made to haul up cannon, ammunition, powder, water, tents and other supplies to the summit of the mountain, where they set up to defend the rivers and town.  It is long and steep, 3 miles to the summit. If we find it hard in our high tech boots/shoes, light clothing, and using hiking poles then just imagine doing it in July, in wool uniforms, broken down boots and shoes, dragging cannon capable of firing 100 lb cannon balls plus all of the supplies the troops would need – and having to go all the way back down to the rivers once a week to haul up enough water for everyone.  At the 2 mile point we took the side trail, another 1 mile round trip, down to the overlook – a rocky cliff that has a full view of both rivers and the town.  Spent some time enjoying the view, taking photos and having snacks.  Then it was time to do the last mile ascent to the summit.

Once there we spread out, relaxed and had lunch.  Again, stunning views and by then a gorgeous warm day.  Off came the layers and we soaked up the sunshine.  I should note as well that there are many historic markers and sites on this trail – the ammo dumps and powder magazines, the ruins of the stone fort the troops built, the site of the 100 lb cannon at the summit (that’s the weight of the cannonball – not the much much heavier cannon itself), troop tent sites, and even a sad sign remarking on the death of a soldier who was blown to bits when an ammo dump blew up. I suppose he’s still there watching the hikers pass by…….

The hike back is all downhill, as much steep down to the bottom as it is up to the top.  It is a loop hike, so the way down offers different scenery til we hit the main road again.  It took us about 4 1/2 hours start to finish, for a total of about 8 miles with the walk back to town.

Once in town some went on home, many headed to the Secret Six Tavern, and five of us went on up High Street (another long steep climb!) to the PATC HQ (Potomac Appalachian Trail Conference). We had been invited to stop by by a new Dames member, Terri, as she’s a volunteer there. They were so excited to meet us!  Lots of handshaking and a 1000 questions! I’d never been there and it is absolutely worth visiting. So much information on the AT, books and things to buy, a hiker’s “lounge”, photo albums of thru-hikers that have stopped on the way, a huge relief map of the AT,  and more.  I will definitely be going back when I’m not so tired and sweat soaked!  The five of us went back down the street to the tavern for some refreshment. We couldn’t get seated with everyone else, but we still had a great time just sitting and chatting and it was a perfect way to end a perfect hike.

Caving with the Dames

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This is a guest post by our own Joan aka Hemlock– originally posted on her bloghttp://ramblinghemlock.blogspot.com/

This weekend I went on a caving trip with the Trail Dames.  We were fortunate to have several experienced guides and the Dames, as usual, were incredibly helpful and supportive.  Even though we went to a so-called “horizontal, easy” cave in northwest Georgia, it offered plenty of challenges for us nervous first-timers.

Caving was a fantastic experience, both for the physical challenge and because being within the earth proved utterly peaceful.  After getting the hang of it (thank goodness for the kneepads and helmet!), I enjoyed squeezing though the tight spots on my belly while pushing my pack in front of me, and rolling down the passageway, which turned out to be easier than crawling.  My arms, shoulders, core, and legs all received a satisfying workout.   I went through holes that I couldn’t believe I’d fit through and went down inclines that scared me, and felt such a sense of accomplishment after I realized I could do it!  Also, the cave was such a different, simplified environment– constant weather, fewer sounds, darkness.  Instead of being scary and claustrophobic, I found this environment enhanced and focused all my senses:  I could really smell the cave, listen to the sound of the drops from the ceiling, and see the glint of rocks.  I felt utterly alive and fully present.

A few times on the return trip, there was no one ahead of me and I tested my route-finding skills.  It took my brain a while to adjust to reading the cave.  Where was the easiest route?  Should I crouch, crawl, or roll?  Which way had I gone before?  Trying to remember the route, I visualized not just a two dimensional trail, but the series of interconnecting tubes that branched in three dimensions.  Using rocks and mud as landmarks was challenging for me because I am normally use plants and trees for navigation because for me they are so easy to remember.  I began to develop a better eye for subtle differences in rocks and formations, like how in winter, tree shapes and shades of brown become totally fascinating.   Mud in some places was dryer like clay for pottery and resisted pressure, while in other places it melted beneath your feet and stuck and slurped.  Caving was thus totally mentally engaging in addition to providing a full-body workout.

During rest breaks, our trip leader instructed us to lay down on the rocks and let our body heat radiate into the ground.  This had such a calming effect.  Much more so than just sitting down or standing during breaks.  The physical connection to the ground is so peaceful, and it reminds me to practice my yoga relaxation and breathing techniques.  I would love to take this practice back with me to the trail.  I normally stand during resting moments, but I think I will experiment with reclining against a tree or even laying down and being aware of my connection to the earth.

-Joan aka Hemlock

More Waterfalls From Karen, Part 2

Excerpt by Karen T.
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Falls on West Fork of Montgomery Creek
I saved the best for last!  Actually, I just did it today – after failing to
find it yesterday.  Mr. Anthony’s directions are accurate, except that when
you get to the area he describes as “an area large enough to park and turn
around” he doesn’t make it clear that you are at an area that looks like 5
or 6 old roads come together.  So, yesterday following what I *thought* were
the directions I, naturally, went completely the wrong way and ended up
going down an eroded trail that looks like it might be a mountain bike
trail.  I crossed a branch, as he describes and came to a T-junction with
another trail which he does NOT mention.  Since he said the trail “ascends”
after crossing a branch, I took the uphill direction.  Actually, this was  a
very nice trail – but I have NO idea what trail it is!  I only know it
wasn’t the right one!

So I went back today and looked around a little more carefully.  Actually,
where Mr. Anthony says to take the “right fork” it’s easier to just keep to
the left, but either one brings you out at the same place – where it looks
like several roads come together.  There’s a nice parking spot and the REAL
trail is just to the left of this area, over a couple of small mounds
designed to keep care from driving down the old road.  This was an easy hike
down and then back up a little way to a very nice, big water fall.  I didn’t
climb down to the base, though it’s possible down a steep trail.  Maybe some
other day.

But the BEST part I’ve save for last!  If you go on the right day, and get
lucky – as I did today – you’ll get to see about 100 good-looking young Army
Rangers out on maneuvers!   The beginning of this trail is actually on the
Ranger camp grounds, though not inside the manned gate…but there is a gate
across the road, so it’s possible that sometimes it might not be possible to
drive up the road.  Luckily for me, that gate was open both days.  BTW, when
Mr. Anthony says the road gets very narrow after the first fork, he is NOT
kidding!  It’s JUST barely wide enough for a pick-up truck – you PRAY you
don’t meet anyone coming the other way.  If you decide to park at the first
fork (as he suggests) it would still be a nice, easy hike to the falls and
back – maybe just under 2 miles total.

Over the last few weekends, I’ve done a lot of driving on forest service
roads and I am happy to report that a lot of them are in MUCH better
condition than they were last spring, especially FS 42.  A LOT of work has
been done on them, grading and graveling, and they are much improved.  They
aren’t superhighways, but still much, much better than they were after last
winter.

Karen T.

More Waterfalls From Karen, Part 1

Excerpt by Karen T.

Stonewall Falls small
I’m still working on my “waterfalls project” and have been to quite a few
more since Labor Day weekend.  As usual, these all came from J.J.Anthony’s
website: http://www.jjanthony.com/waterfalls/

High Shoals Falls on Walden Creek
This small falls is very pretty, and a nice hike…if you don’t mind hiking
on forest service roads.  The directions on Mr. Anthony’s site are quite
accurate, and the road – considering that it is blocked to traffic – was in
pretty good shape.  In fact, if it hadn’t actually been blocked, I probably
could have driven almost to the falls…except there was one big blow-down
that completely blocked the road.  This hike sticks in my mind as a bit
“odd.”  All the way in, I saw no footprints, no tire marks and I heard
nothing but the usual forest sounds.  But when I actually got to the falls
there were two big family size tents, and an open-air kitchen area.  Sound
really travels in the mountains…but I heard no voices, or engine sounds.
Nothing at all.  I’ve NO idea where all those people went!  I’m guessing
they had ATV’s or something and had driven out the other way from the way I
hiked in.  The road does keep going, but I don’t know where it comes out at
the other end.

Falls on Ward Creek (near Justus Gap)
You can drive right up to this falls on FS 42 (the same forest service road
that goes to the parking area for Springer Mtn.) and this time of the year
it’s JUST visible.  But you can walk down a very short drop from the road to
get a complete view of it.  It’s not very big, but is very pretty.

Cane Creek Falls
This falls is on the grounds of Camp Glisson, a Methodist campground.
There’s no charge, but you do need to sign in at the Visitor’s Center.  The
camp will not be open to visitors, though, if they are having a camp
session.  This one was funny.  It’s quite easy to get to the falls, you just
drive through the gate and there is a sign that points to the parking for
the falls.  Never having been there before, I made the turn, saw the parking
area…but NO falls!  So I kept driving and ended up in the middle of a
bunch of cabins.  Obviously not the right direction!  So to keep from
getting totally lost, I turned around and retraced my steps and lo and
behold – when I got back to the parking, THERE was the falls!  It is BEHIND
you as you come down the curve to the parking!

Glen Falls
This falls is BARELY in Georgia.  In fact, you have to go through
Chattanooga to Lookout Mtn to get to them.  Mr. Anthony has a picture of a
sign on his website that shows “Glen Falls Trail .4 mi” but I never saw that
sign.  The trail is quite nice, short and at one point almost looks as if it
just stops, but you keep going and so does the trail.  This falls is quite
high up the mountain and is therefore VERY rain dependent…which means,
don’t do like *I* did and try to see it when it’s been dry for a while.  The
“falls” were BONE DRY!  I took a picture anyway, because the rock formation
is interesting…it’s just a huge jumble of huge rocks flowing down the
mountain.

Lula Falls
These falls are on land held by the Lula Lake Land Trust – as indicated by
Mr. Anthony, so you can’t just drive up and expect to see the falls.  You
need to check the website to find out when they will be open.  The road in
was in VERY bad shape the day I was there.  Very deep ruts that I had to be
careful to straddle, as they were too deep for my small car to drive in…I
would have ended up “high centered” if I’d tried.  Fortunately, it’s only
bad for a couple hundred feet, once you are down in the valley, it’s much
better.  The parking area, the day I was there anyway, was a good mile+ from
the lake and the falls.  It wouldn’t be a bad idea to take a bike if you
have one and don’t feel like a long walk.  The road is gravel, but only has
some small ups and downs, and I saw several people on bikes.  The falls were
very small (I went the same day I went to Glen Falls) but the rock formation
are just fantastic, even in low water.

Stonewall Creek Falls
This falls is a couple/three miles above the town of Tallulah Falls and is
pretty easy to get to.  The entrance to the gravel road is marked by signs
pointing to a bike trail, they don’t mention the falls.  The road was not
too bad, except just before you start down into the creek valley it was
pretty rough, so we chose to park at the top and not drive down.  And, of
course, once we walked down in there, we saw LOTS of cars that DID manage
the drive.  There is a parking area before that point where you can park and
walk down the road into the valley.

Falls on Branch of Jones Creek
This was another funny day.  The directions on Mr. Anthony’s site are
detailed and complicated, and at one point he says “Turn right on Siloam and
continue another 6 miles to the Etowah River. Turn left after crossing the
bridge and proceed another 1.5 miles to Forest Service Road 28-1. ” but this
is not accurate.  Actually, Siloam Rd. is listed on my map program as Siloam
Church Road, and at some point it changes to Hightower Church Road.  AND you
don’t “turn left after crossing the bridge”  – the road ENDS at a T-junction
and you turn left TO cross the bridge.  But it’s easier to drive past Siloam
(Church) Rd. and, if driving from Dahlonega (as Mr. Anthony instructs) turn
right on the 2nd Nimblewill Church Road and follow this to FS 28-1 and then
on to FS 77.  Then follow Mr. Anthony’s directions from there.

The last 1.8 mile road is rough and the day we did it was barely passable in
my little station wagon.  It would be easier in an SUV or jeep-type vehicle.
What made it a funny day is that Mr. Anthony advises parking between the two
concrete fords and then going up the right side of the creek.  Well, we did
that and at one place ended up LITERALLY hanging onto the trees to keep from
dropping into the creek.  It was only a couple/three feet down – but we
didn’t want to get our feet wet!  We found the falls and on the way out, my
sister followed a nice, easy old logging road that went RIGHT back to the
ford!  So it’s much easier to cross both fords, find a place to park and
follow the old road.  This will bring you out above the first falls, but
there is a bridge and you can then hike a bit downstream to where it’s easy
to get down the hill to the base of the falls.  The second falls are harder
to find and I didn’t actually get a picture, will have to go back one day!

To be continued…..