Day 2 in Ecuador Continued…

Day 2 continued……….
So, you know the old adage about the best laid plans, right? I head back to the house and go across the street for some food. The restaurant has five small tables inside and no menu. What they have cooked for the day IS the menu! I¨ should take a moment to say that very, very few people here speak English. I kind of love that!! I hate it when people assume that other countries should speak our language and I try to be very cognizant of the idea that I am a guest in their country, so I nod and smile and go with the flow. 🙂 This, of course, gets extra interesting when you are ordering food! I ask for food and drink and sit down looking out of the window. The elderly woman brings me a hot soup with spinich and avocado and I am happy. THEN she brings me a huge plate of food , rice, beans, salad and a seriously unidentifiable piece of meat that has a huge bone in it! Well, I know better than to eat the salad…..that whole ¨no eating raw fruits, veggies or street food in a strange country¨thing. And I knew that I was not going to get along with that piece of meat. So, I enjoyed the rice and beans and moved the rest of it around so that I would not hurt her feelings. She finished by bringing me a grilled piece of pineapple.
Full to the brim, I head off to enjoy a nice long nap. I am out like a light when, at 8:00 there is a knock on my door. It is Njål and he says, “I am going to Tango…want to come?¨
Sigh…….
I have a serious problem here. First of all, I have a stead fast rule, especially when traveling in foreign countries. Never, ever say no to a new experience. But face it folks, I have serious body issues!! And I do NOT know how to dance! And the Tango, for crying out loud! I don’t know much about South America, but I am pretty sure that I will not be allowed to sit quietly and watch. No good could come of this. You see my problem.
Sigh………
Yes, of course I want to go.
We jump in a cab and he explains that a very famous Tango dancer from Colombia is visiting and is giving lessons at a persons house. We pull up to an apartment and pick up a fun, older couple that Njål met on the internet and start winding our way up to the very North part of the city. We arrive at a building and the man explains that we enter on street level and then take an elevator down 8 flights. We descend through a modern, gorgeous building in a wire cage of an elevator, and step out into a gorgeous apartment that has a wall of windows looking out over the city. Wow.
There are about 15 people there, all friendly and attractive, mingling and chatting. Every person introduces themselves to me, kissing me on the cheek. I feel welcome already. And it looks like I will be able to sit and watch. Yay me!!! 🙂 Everyone begins changing their shoes and the instructor, John, calls them together. The lights are lowered, impossibly rich music starts playing, and couples start dancing. I sit completely mesmerized. The Tango community here is actually quite small and these people all know each other. Njål was lucky to get an invitation to this and I feel really lucky to be along. The passion these people have for this dance is evident in every single step. A young man with long, dark hair walks over to my chair and with a smile, hands me a glass of hot, spiced wine. I sit back and Iet the music wash over me for the better part of an hour. Wow…..just, wow.
Later in the evening, everyone takes a break for food and wine and I take out money to pay the instructor. The dancers are all paying $20 apiece to learn from him, and even though I am not dancing, I felt like it was the very least I could do. The gift of this evening was worth so much more. As everyone began to dance again, I settled back in my chair for more. I looked up, however, and Njål was standing in front of me with his hand stretched out. He said, ¨Please¨.

Sigh………..
My stomach knotted up and I told him again that I was a terrible dancer. He just pulled me in and off we went. So this is what people mean when they say that it is so much easier to dance with a good leader. For some reason, I trust him. So I do my best to not embarrass him and we Tango away. All is good until the teacher steps in and re-starts class. I thought we were on to the ‘anyone can dance’ portion of the evening!! Now I am involved and no one will let me sit down. This is bad!! This is the equivalent of a first-time violin student being asked to sit in an ASO rehearsal. I swallow the butterflies in my stomach as Njål translates the teachers instructions. We are all to free-style our way through the group dancing with each other. Oy Vay.
I should mention that this is Argentinean Tango, not ballroom Tango. It is much more subtle and refined than ballroom. Also, in Argentinean Tango, everyone dances with everyone. Men with women, women with women, men with men. It does not matter and everyone puts all of their hearts into it, regardless of who they are dancing with. Men all learn from the beginning to lead as well as follow, so they are comfortable doing both. As we begin dancing, I have my first truly funny moment. Have you seen Dirty Dancing? Remember the very first party Baby goes to where out of the blue Patrick Swayze dances up to her, grabs her and dances for a while before just dancing off, leaving her alone in the middle of the floor? I had a true Dirty Dancing moment when the instructor came up and grabbed me, giving me a few swirls around the room. When he danced off, I was so relieved!! He is beautiful, and amazing and nice as can be and all of that….but he scares the MESS out of me!!! 🙂
The next few exercises involve taking turns with your partner, one of you leading the other around the dance while the other has their eyes closed. I looked at Njål and said, “soooooo not going to happen!¨. He just simply said ¨Please¨.

Oh man oh man oh man…..

You know that whole ´trust game´ thing you do where you let people lead you around? Not me. EVER. Between my fear of falling, lack of grace, and, in this particular situation, complete lack of know how, there is just no way I am doing this.

There is also no way I can say no to that ´please´.

So we Tango on. When it comes to closing my eyes, I just do it. I trust him. Don’t ask me why. We swirl around and from time to time I feel the breeze of another couple passing, or the hair of another woman brushing against my arm. I know that I am coming so close to colliding with these people but Njål never lets me.
As they move to the final, and truly too advanced for me, dances of the night, I sit back down. Midnight has long come and gone. The clouds have obscured the lights of the city and rain is softly falling against the window. The music has become achingly soft and the fire in the corner has burned down to embers.

I sip my wine and choke back tears.

Really, one person shouldn’t be this lucky.
Buenos Noches.
Anna

Training Hike: Snickers Gap to Crescent Rock

Training Hike: Snickers Gap to Crescent Rock

Sunday, April 29, 2012

Out and back hike along the Appalachian Trail
6.28 Miles
3 hour 30 mins

Elevation Profile from MapMyHIKE

Elevation Profile from MapMyHIKE

Welcome to West Virginia

Welcome to West Virginia

I tested the following items during the hike

1. Voltaren Gel
I applied this gel to both knees about 1 hour before the hike. No pain in my bad knee during the hike and slight ache at times in the good knee when descending. My good knee is starting to get arthritis after many years of compensating for the the bad knee.

My knees were stiff by the time I got home. I iced both knees.

2. ASICS GEL-Fuji Racer

These are a minimalist trail runner and they felt great! They are not waterproof so they will be a spring/summer hiking shoe.

Asics Gel Fuji Racer

Asics Gel Fuji Racer

3. Safe-T-Sport Patella Support Brace

Safe-T-Sport Patella Support Brace Model 37-300

Safe-T-Sport Patella Support Brace Model 37-300

I decided to try using a knee brace after talking with several hikers who said that braces help them minimize knee pain. This brace is small and light. It easily fit under my hiking pants and it was easy to take on/off. I barely noticed the brace once I started hiking.

Weekly Photo Challenge-GainWithoutPain

Weekly Photo Challenge: Together

Weekly Photo Challenge: Together

The Appalachian Trail (AT) is a foot path that stretches from Springer Mountain, Georgia to Mt. Katahdin, Maine. I have finished hiking the AT in 4 states and still have 10 states remaining.

I have been very lucky to have joined the following groups on their hikes in order to get more miles on the trail. By hiking together, we learn from each other, laugh at our mishaps, enjoy nature, and make new friends.

Allentown Hiking Club (PA)
Highlight: They hand out chocolate during breaks!!

Bake Oven Know Road to Lehigh Gap

 

Blue Mountain Eagle Climbing Club (PA)
Highlight: Monster basket of french fries at the Port Clinton Hotel after the hike

Sand Spring Trail to Port Clinton with BMECC

Sand Spring Trail to Port Clinton with BMECC

 

Appalachian Mountain Club – Delaware Valley Chapter
Highlight: They helped us down the tricky parts of Lehigh Gap

Before Little Gap with AMC Delaware Chapter

Before Little Gap with AMC Delaware Chapter

 

Natural Bridge Appalachian Trail Club (VA)
Highlight: They don’t leave their dead behind (Bruce knows what I am talking about)!

Elk Garden to VA 601 with NBATC

Elk Garden to VA 601 with NBATC

 

Rockbridge Community Hikers
Highlight: The group sticking together when one of the hikers doesn’t feel well

Long Mountain Wayside to Pedler Dam

Long Mountain Wayside to Pedler Dam

Tooth Fairies, Altitude and True Beauty

 

P7150053
Mud Butt in Ecuador

Day 2………..

This morning, I woke up early to meet Lizbeth and her family for breakfast. For two dollars a day, she will provide it for me. All I really want is coffee, but I cannot pass up the chance to visit with her and her family, which includes a cute, cute six year old son named Emilio. I ply him with Jolly Ranchers and he grins with a smile missing no less than four teeth. When I ask about the tooth fairy, Lizbeth says that here they have a mouse…..but that the mouse also takes the tooth from under the pillow and leaves a little bit of money. Isn’t it interesting how the same custom could have evolved, but with the small difference of a fairy verses a mouse? 🙂

I asked her about going around town to sight see and am met with a worried glance. She asks me to please not go anywhere by myself. Hmmm….that could be difficult, seeing as how I am traveling alone! I assure her that I will speak to the FOSJE people about it and that I will be very careful. By 9:00, I am waiting outside with Njål to go to the school. Njål is the other luthier and he is wonderful! He is originally from Denmark, but studied at the violin making school in the UK. He is quiet, but very funny and I pepper him with questions about the program as our taxi takes us there. He explains that everything changes daily and that he is trying to make tools with the students, but that they have no steel, blow torch, or any of the other things that one really needs to make tools. He also is wondering if I will really need all five days to teach bow rehairing, because he is slightly panicked about teaching them all of the set up he is supposed to. He is here for three weeks, but is losing a lot of time due to the lack of tools. I assure him that he can have any time that I do not need, but that my first priority is that the students can rehair bows. I think we will work it out all right.
We pull up outside of the school and pass an armed guard as we enter. Come to think of it, there seems to be a lot of armed guards around. Interesting…..
As we walk in, I am surrounded by sounds of a woodwind group playing Shostakovich 6, a string bass master class playing etudes and a cello class working on Beethoven 5. These people are not messing around!! The students play really, really well and I think of the El Systema Program in Venezuela. These students might come from less wealthy backgrounds, but that is not stopping the teachers from demanding the very most out of them! The program here is called FOSJE, which stands basically for the Orchestra System for Young Ecuador. I have not lifted a finger, but I am already so proud to be here!!
Njål takes me up to introduce me to the staff where Eudoxia, the woman in charge of the office, is immediately concerned about my playing tourist for the next few days. I am starting to think that Quito might not be as safe as my five-year old book says that it is. She arranges for a cab to spend the day with me. Patricio, for 10 dollars an hour, will take me wherever I want to go and wait for me as long as I like. I am feeling a bit frustrated at the idea of having a pseudo`-body guard with me all of the time, but I decide that I should trust the people that actually live here. They probably know a bit more about the town than I do!! 🙂 As I am leaving, she also warns me about the altitude. We are at 9,000 feet here and she is worried about me. ¨Today, you rest¨. ¨Today you drink much water¨. ¨Today you do not eat too much food¨. And…..¨Today, you do not sleep with another person¨. Njål and I laugh and laugh and assure her that I will follow all of her advice. 🙂 As we leave, Njål says, ¨Funny…no one seems worried about my safety or health!!

I walk outside to meet my new friend and as I get into the cab, I tell Patricio that I want to visit two museums. Off we go. The traffic here is fierce!! Stop signs are a merest suggestion, and pedestrians definitely do NOT have the right of way. I actually suck in as Patricio manages to fit the cab between a bus and a huge garbage truck. I am sure that there is not enough room, but some how, he does it! I love taxis in foreign countries!! They are utterly fearless! 🙂 And I place a great deal of trust in them… I mean, after-all….the cab is their livelihood and they do not want it damaged!
We make our way through the crowded North part of the city, headed towards Old Town. We pass tons of fast food, some of which I recognize and some of which have great names like ´´Chicky Hut¨. There are pharmacies on every single corner, one of which is called the Colon Pharmacy. I didn´t ask. 🙂
As the streets become narrower and steeper, the cab pulls up in front of a non-descript door in the wall. He says that he will wait and I step through the entry to find myself in the Museo de la Cuidat. This is the neatest place!! It was built in the 1500´s and was originally a hospital. Except, they didn’t just use it as a hospital. It was a place for anyone to go that was in need. Widows, orphans, etc. So in reality, it was an outlet for any social need. I just think that is the coolest idea! The museum weaves in and out of old rooms and is made up of displays of daily life throughout the history of Quito. Think of it as a smaller version of the Museum of Natural Science and History in New York…..without the dinosaur. There is a small, but beautiful church attached to the building and I spend some time in there soaking in the gorgeous art. Quito is famous for it’s churches and I can’t wait to see some more.

I head outside to find a patient Patricio waiting for me in the cab. Off we go to the Foundation de la Guayasamin. Guayasamin was the most famous artist Ecuador has and Eudoxia has assured me that I want to see his museum. When in Rome, right? Well, I pay my 4$ and walk into a huge room, where the breath is sucked completely out of my body. Giant paintings of the most vivid, moving images I have ever seen surround me. Many are ten feet tall and they are spectacular. My eyes fill with tears and I truly cannot move. I have been to art museums all over the world, but have never been so viscerally affected by what I see. I slowly wander though the rooms, repeatedly sighing soft ´´wow’s´´, and wonder why this man is not more well known.
I finally land in front of a self-portrait and give in to the tears. I have never seen such sadness in a painting. His eyes are full of such grief that I cannot help but be personally drawn in. This was worth the whole trip.

Later, I go to buy a print at the small gift shop and inquire about the self portrait. The young man shakes his head knowingly….there is not a print made of that one. I was allowed to take a picture, and later I will post it on the Trail Dames blog. But something tells me that you would have to see it in person. I wander up to the small cafe on top of the hill and find myself overlooking the city. A quiet cup of cafe con leche is just what I need…..this museum kind of rocked me. But in a really good way. I sit in the cool breeze and take some time to be grateful that my family offered up these extra days to experience Quito. I would have hated to miss this.
It is time to go find my very, very patient driver and head back to the house. It is only three in the afternoon, but I am spent. I am going to find a quiet lunch-dinner somewhere and head to bed early…..
Or at least, that is the idea……………..
(to be continued……)

Keys Gap to the David Lesser Shelter

Keys Gap to the David Lesser Shelter

Sunday, February 3, 2013Leave a comment

David Lesser Shelter

Pavilion

Appalachian Trail

AT NY: 55 to 22

Sunday, October 7, 2012Leave a comment

7.2 miles

The train station in Pawling, NY.

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AT: Arden Valley Rd to 17 (NY)

5.5 miles

Dirigo going through the Lemon Squeezers

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AT: NY 17A to 17

Saturday, May 19, 2012Leave a comment

12 miles

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Training Hike: Keys Gap to David Lesser Shelter

Keys Gap to David Lesser Shelter

Keys Gap to David Lesser Shelter